The crossing

Paraty to Ilha Grande

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From the chalé's deck, Ilha Grande is the long mountain ridge lying across the horizon. Getting there is a half-day logistics puzzle with three solutions. Here they are, honestly compared.

Option one: direct boat from Paraty

In season and on demand, fast catamarans and transfer boats run directly from Paraty's pier to Vila do Abraão, Ilha Grande's main village. The crossing takes roughly two to two and a half hours along one of the prettiest stretches of coast in Brazil — you pass the whole bay, the outer islands and the green wall of the Juatinga peninsula. It's the door-to-door winner when it's running; schedules thin outside summer and on weekdays, and rough seas cancel it occasionally. Book a day or two ahead through your hosts or at the pier, and confirm the return leg at the same time.

Option two: drive to Conceição de Jacareí, then flexboat

The workhorse route. Drive or transfer about an hour up the BR-101 to Conceição de Jacareí — a small roadside village that exists mainly as a launchpad — park in one of the paid lots, and cross by flexboat (fast covered speedboat, 20–30 minutes) or slower schooner (about an hour) to Abraão. Departures are frequent all day in season. This is the shortest water crossing, the most schedule-resilient option, and the one we suggest for travellers prone to seasickness: less time on the water, more of it in protected channels.

Option three: via Angra dos Reis

Angra, ninety minutes up the coast, runs the traditional big ferry to Abraão (cheap, slow, scenic — about 90 minutes) plus its own flexboats. It's rarely the best choice from Paraty specifically, but it slots in beautifully if you're doing the full Costa Verde week and visiting Angra's islands anyway, or travelling onward toward Rio afterwards.

What Abraão is like

Vila do Abraão is the island's one real town, and it sets the tone the moment you step off the boat: sand streets, wheelbarrows instead of cars (there are no cars on Ilha Grande), dive shops, pousadas, and a beachfront of restaurant tables under the almond trees. It's backpacker-flavoured but family-friendly, busy in the evenings and surprisingly quiet by midnight. Everything onward — the boat-taxis to Lopes Mendes, the round-the-island tours, the trailheads — organises itself from the waterfront within ten minutes of arrival.

Day trip or overnight?

A day trip from Paraty is possible in high season (direct boat out, direct boat back) but it's a long day for a short island visit. Our honest advice: stay one night. You get Lopes Mendes without watching the clock, the evening waterfront, and the morning island light — then return to the chalé the next afternoon. Leave the bulk of your luggage at the house and cross with a daypack; everything in Abraão is a walk from the pier, and wheeled suitcases lose their dignity fast on sand streets.

Crossing-day checklist