Itinerary

Seven days on the Costa Verde

Plan your trip3 min readParaty · Costa Verde

The Costa Verde — the green coast between Rio and São Paulo — packs three very different worlds into one stretch of shoreline: colonial Paraty, car-free Ilha Grande, and the island-strewn bay of Angra dos Reis. A week covers all three without ever feeling like a checklist. Here's how we'd run it.

Ilha Grande, the big island off the Costa Verde
Ilha Grande, the great car-free island, is the middle act of the Costa Verde week — Brazil's roadless island of a hundred-plus beaches. Photo: Sabrina Mesquita / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Days 1–3: Paraty

Base yourself above the bay and give Paraty three full days: one for the historic centre and the fort, one for a boat day on the bay, one for the waterfalls and cachaça distilleries on the Cunha road or the beaches of Trindade. That rhythm — town, water, forest — is laid out hour by hour in our three-day itinerary, so we won't repeat it here.

What matters for the week-long version is pacing: Paraty is the slow, golden, civilised act of the trip. Eat well, stay up for the live music once, and don't burn energy you'll want on the island.

Days 4–5: Ilha Grande

From the deck of the chalé, Ilha Grande is the long blue ridge on the horizon. Up close it's Brazil's great roadless island: no cars, a hundred-plus beaches, and a single real village — Vila do Abraão — where the boats land. Direct transfers run from Paraty in season, or you drive up the coast and cross from Conceição de Jacareí or Angra; the options, times and gotchas are in Paraty to Ilha Grande.

Stay one night, two if you can. The non-negotiable is Lopes Mendes: three kilometres of pale sand and clear surf, reached by boat-taxi to a neighbouring cove and then a short forest trail. Day two, take a around-the-island boat tour or pick a trail out of Abraão — the island is almost entirely state park, and the jungle comes down to the waterline everywhere.

Lopes Mendes, Ilha Grande's long arc of white sand
Lopes Mendes on Ilha Grande — three kilometres of pale sand reached by boat-taxi and a short forest walk, the island's one non-negotiable. Photo: Fulviusbsas / Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Day 6: Angra dos Reis

Angra is the bay of 365 islands — a working town fronting an absurd scatter of islets, sandbars and private coves. The town itself is functional rather than pretty; the point is the water. Join a boat tour or hire a lancha for the day and swim the sandbanks and snorkel spots between the islands. If you're returning toward Paraty by car, this slots in naturally on the drive back down the BR-101.

The island-scattered bay of Angra dos Reis
The island-scattered bay of Angra dos Reis — the so-called bay of 365 islands, a day of sandbanks and snorkel spots between the islets. Photo: chensiyuan / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Day 7: the flex day

Keep the last day empty and spend it on whatever the week told you that you wanted more of. Options we'd shortlist:

  • The Saco do Mamanguá — the fjord-like ria south of Paraty, with a climb up the Mamanguá sugarloaf if your legs want it.
  • A second, private boat day targeting the snorkeling islands the schooner rushed past.
  • Nothing. The pool, the mist burning off the canopy, a long lunch. The view does the work.

Practical notes

  • Direction: if flying into Rio, do the week as written (Paraty first, working back toward Rio via Ilha Grande and Angra saves backtracking on departure day).
  • Season: December–March is hottest with afternoon storms; June–August is drier and clearer. Both work — see what to pack.
  • Leave the protected areas as you found them — most of this route runs through reserves; our low-impact guide has the details.

Come stay above the bay

Chalé Bel Air sits on the ridge that looks over everything in this guide. Tell us your dates and what kind of trip you are after — we answer personally.

Ask about your dates

Frequently asked questions

What does a week on the Costa Verde include?

Three days in Paraty (town, a boat day, and the waterfalls or Trindade), one or two nights on Ilha Grande for Lopes Mendes and an island trail, a day among the islands of Angra dos Reis, and a final flex day for the Saco do Mamanguá, a second boat day, or simply the pool.

How long should I spend on Ilha Grande?

Stay one night, two if you can. The non-negotiable is Lopes Mendes — three kilometres of pale sand reached by boat-taxi and a short forest trail. A second day lets you take an around-the-island boat tour or pick a trail out of Vila do Abraão.

Which direction should I do the week in?

If you're flying into Rio, do it as written — Paraty first, then work back toward Rio via Ilha Grande and Angra dos Reis. That saves backtracking on departure day.

What's the best season for a Costa Verde week?

Both main seasons work. December–March is hottest with afternoon storms and the warmest sea; June–August is drier and clearer with the best visibility. Most of the route runs through protected reserves, so travel light and leave them as you found them.